Garlic is as beautiful in the garden as it is easy to grow.
By Chester Aaron
From Organic Gardening.com, a great magazine for all: gardeners, cooks, foodies!
Soil preparation: Garlic
will tolerate some shade but prefers full sun. While I've seen cloves
sprout in gravel pits, garlic responds best in well-drained, rich, loamy
soil amended with lots of
organic matter. Raised beds are ideal, except in very dry regions.
Planting: To grow garlic, you plant the
cloves, the sections of the
bulb;
each clove will produce a new bulb. The largest cloves generally yield
the biggest bulbs. To get the cloves off to a strong start and protect
them from fungal diseases, soak them in a jar of water containing one
heaping tablespoon of baking soda and a tablespoon of liquid seaweed for
a few hours before planting. Plant garlic in the fall.
Spacing: Place cloves in a hole or furrow with the flat or root
end down and pointed end up, with each tip 2 inches beneath the soil.
Set the cloves about 6 to 8 inches apart. Top the soil with 6 inches of
mulch, such as straw or dried grass clippings mixed with leaves. You'll
see shoots start growing right through the mulch in four to eight weeks,
depending on your weather and the variety you've planted. They stop
growing during winter, then start again in spring. Leave the
mulch in place into spring; it conserves moisture and suppresses weeds (garlic competes poorly with weeds).
Watering: Garlic needs about an inch of water each week during
spring growth. If you have to augment rainfall with the garden hose,
stop watering by June 1 or when the leaves begin to yellow in order to
let the bulbs firm up.
Scape Sacrifice: By mid-June, your garlic will begin sprouting
flowery tops that curl as they mature and ultimately straighten out into
long spiky tendrils. These savory stalks, known as scapes, should be
removed to encourage larger, more efficient bulb growth. However, before
adding severed scapes to the compost pile, try incorporating their mild
garlic flavor into a delicious scape pesto, scape dip, or scape soup.
Fertilizing: Start foliar-feeding your garlic every two weeks as
soon as leaf growth begins in spring (typically in March) and continue
until around May 15, at which point the bulbs begin to form, says
Darrell Merrell, host of the "Garlic Is Life" Festival in Tulsa,
Oklahoma. Merrell uses 1 tablespoon liquid seaweed mix and 1 tablespoon
fish emulsion mixed into a gallon of water.
Harvesting Hints
When half to three-quarters of the leaves turn yellow-brown, typically
in late June or early July (depending on the variety and the weather),
it's harvest time. Carefully dig up each bulb; do not pull, or you may
break the stalk from the bulb, which can cause it to rot. Once it's
harvested, get it out of the sun as soon as possible.
Tie the garlic together in bundles of 6 to 10 bulbs (label them if
you've grown more than one variety) and hang them to cure for about four
to six weeks in a shaded, dry, and preferably drafty area.
When your garlic is thoroughly dry, trim the roots, taking care not to
knock off the outer skin. Cut off the stalks about 1½ inches above the
bulb if you plan to keep the garlic in bags. Recycled mesh onion bags
are perfect for storage.